Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city is no surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always defined its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
